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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.